36 Hours on Lopez Island

Sunset Bay

“Don’t change Lopez Island,” one cheerily hand-penned sign read in the window of a village shop. “Let Lopez Island change you.”

There is something magical about crossing water to reach a destination. Even when that location is only roughly 90 miles from home, I could not believe how different Lopez Island felt.

As the honorary contributing beverage writer for Rain or Shine Guides I wanted to pick a destination not too difficult to reach, but still within a day’s drive. One of the San Juan Islands seemed ideal, and after reading about a blazing newish restaurant (more on that soon), I booked a full weekend on Lopez Island to explore.

Spoiler alert: Do not travel to Lopez Island just for the beverages. Lopez Island Brewing Company may have a website and a physical address, but neither yielded tangible results. As for Lopez Island Vineyards, tastings are held as “pop ups” or at Summer Farmers Markets — neither of which we located on a November weekend. Our beverage scouting will have to wait for further developments.

Having said that, DO visit Lopez Island for everything else. Here are the top hitters.

The Scenic Calm

Lopez Island is quiet and dark with very few cars and unpolluted skies flush with stars. As my husband and I lay in the bed of our garden cottage next to a warm wood stove, we fell asleep watching The Milky Way tilt and slide above us through the skylights. If you need a place with 63 miles of stark, hushed coastline, you could do worse than Lopez Island.

TIP: Many businesses, and even Spencer Spit State Park, are fully closed during the offseason, (shhhhh! we hiked to the spit anyway). However, if solitude is what you seek, consider the lower cost and non bustle of booking a Lopez trip in the offseason.

Driftwood at Spencer Spit

The Wildlife

Stepping out of our cottage I was surrounded by friendly jackrabbits. Just by walking 300 feet to the coastline, I spotted a lazy seal turning somersaults in Fisherman Bay.  A clear day yielded to a stunning salmon and terracotta-streaked sunset featuring a lone, gliding bald eagle. Nature envelopes you at every turn on Lopez Island, from quaint farms filled with braying goats to fish leaping from brackish ponds.

TIP: For an unadulterated coastal vista filled with sea birds, seals, and sometimes orcas and porpoises, visit Shark Reef Sanctuary on the south-western end of the island. Leave your car in the tiny pullout and hike a half mile to the cliff edges along a well-marked and maintained trail. Nature favors those who wait, so bring a sandwich, perch on a rock, and see who decides to pass by.

Vista at Shark Reef Sanctuary

The Charm

Famously nicknamed “Slowpez,” nothing moves quickly on Lopez Island. Being open to adventure will serve you well. Cafe closed for the winter? No worries! Just a few miles down the road at Sunnyfield Farm we encountered the Lopez Island Little Winter Market. Crowded with local vendors peddling fresh bread, herbed cheeses made right on the property, and spiced cider, you can support the thriving local farm trade while enjoying a string band playing in the hay rafters.

TIP: Don’t be alarmed when everyone on Lopez waves at you from their cars. It’s polite, customary, and becomes completely natural within an hour or two. It’s just another piece of local charm that solidified Lopez Island’s place in my heart.

Little Winter Market inspired lunch

The FOOD!

But the number one reason to visit Lopez is to try Ursa Minor, a creative agrarian Northwest restaurant right in the heart of the village. Recently featured in Edible Seattle, this rustic and imaginative dining experience did not disappoint and ranked as highly with us as our recent experiences at Michelin-starred restaurants in France. This is the closest to food terroir I’ve had yet in the northwest.

Make Ursa Minor the star of the evening and stay late to share plates like the burnt cabbage, sunflower seeds, wild onion & chestnut dish or tide-tumbled fresh oysters topped with frozen kimchi. Our entree of chicken, potatoes, chanterelles & black garlic was artfully presented and quickly devoured. And for a lady who doesn’t like dessert, I struggled to share the hay ice cream, poached quince, malt, and honey crumbles with my date. I will seriously dream of those honey crumbles for weeks to come.

A fairly priced and solid wine list made pairing easy with glasses of sparkling Fruili to start and a 2013 bottle of Crozes-Hermitage to take us the rest of the way through the meal.

TIP: While there’s no tasting menu (YET) at Ursa Minor, do talk to co-owners Chef, Nick Coffey and Front-of-House, Nova Askue to hear what’s good right now. Most items are sourced on the island so they will know what’s showing best when. Reservations are recommended, so book ahead.

Lamb leg, roasted koji, daikon & mustard greens at Ursa Minor

So close to home, yet so very different, try Lopez Island. Do reserve your space on the outbound ferry as passage is never a guarantee. Bring binoculars for the amazing sights you will see far and wide. And let me know if that brewery ever opens its doors to visitors. Salud!

Amy L. Dickson is a communications professional, freelance writer, Level 1 sommelier, and a contributor to Rain or Shine Guides. Follow her at @amyldickson75

Seattle's Outdoor Staircases

It's no secret we like to eat. And sometimes blog posts require that we eat 5 donuts in one morning (it's for research, people!). So, it's probably smart if we occasionally try to get outside and move our bodies so we can tackle more donut shops in the afternoon. Of course, we want something that is going to pack a serious punch in the shortest amount of time. Enter stair climbing. It's one of the fastest ways to burn fat, tone your legs, scream curse words, and not be able to get out of bed the next morning. Outdoor staircases in and around the city are numerous. In fact, there is an entire website dedicated to finding these hidden leg burners. Today, we are here to tell you about our 3 favorites. They get you to different parts of the city and are pretty to boot! If you are going to do a workout from hell, you might as well get some scenery, amiright?

Thistle Street Stairs

Location: 8261 Northrop Pl SW, Seattle, WA 98136

This long stair case is located in West Seattle right next to Lincoln Park, which is sort of perfect because Lincoln Park is a beloved and large park located right on the Puget Sound (and home to Colman Pool). It's worth the trek to West Seattle to visit the park and you can tackle this stair climb as part of your outdoor adventure day. The stairs start at Fauntleroy Ave. right by the park and the ascend 367 steps towards SW Thistle Street. They start off fairly gradual with long steps, but eventually steepen before reaching the top. Take a deep breathe, and get moving! You got this.

Howe Street Stairs

Location: 810 E Howe St, Seattle, WA 98102

The very long Howe Street Stairs

Howe Street Stairs and Blaine Street stairs are located right next to each other and run parallel from Lakeview Blvd E. all the way up to E. Howe Street and E. Blaine Street. There are 388 steps making them the longest, continuous staircase in Seattle. They are relatively popular, so you will have to share the steps with others looking to get in a workout, but the steps are wide and there is plenty of room. The steps run alongside houses with beautiful backyards and lush vegetation making them a beautiful place to get your steps in. If you haven't passed out from running up and down Howe Street stairs, we recommend walking the short distance to Blaine Street and doing it all over again.

Beautiful backyards along Howe Street Stairs

Wilcox Wall

Location: 8th Ave. West at West Lee St.

The Wilcox Wall

The Wilcox Wall is a lovely retaining wall located in Queen Anne with stairs built into it. While the number of stairs in the wall are actually relatively small, this one makes the list because it can be combined with the Lee Street Stairs located not too far away and, if you are really ambitious, can also be combined with the Galer Street Stairs for one long, epic workout. It also offers sweeping views of the Sound! We recommend starting at Olympic Way W. and W. Lee Street, running up the Lee Street Stairs, up the Wilcox Wall then following W. Lee St. all the way to Queen Anne Ave. N. where you can finally hit the final 36 steps that brings you to the top of Galer St. Here is a map for reference.

The best part about this run is that it ends right at Queen Anne's 5 Spot, so you can get a lovely brunch (and mimosa) after you are done. You deserve it.

Lee Street Stairs

The view from the top of the Wilcox Wall

What are your favorite outdoor staircases? We would love to know!

5 Secret Tiny Parks of Seattle

Seattlelites love parks, and with over 485 to choose from in the city, there are countless options to find a place to spend a sunny afternoon (check out our parks and hikes page to see a few of our favorites). But what if you don't want to be surrounded by a bunch of people? What if you just want a quiet spot and a patch of grass to call your own? Well, no problem! There is a good chance you'll be one of the only people visiting these tiny, but mighty, parks around Seattle.

Bhy Kracke Park

Probably the most popular and well known park in Queen Anne is Kerry Park because it boasts what are arguably the best views of the city. However, with popularity comes crowds and tourists (and lots of selfie sticks). What most people don't know is that Bhy Kracke Park is located right down the street and it's just as wonderful in its own way. This tiny park has an upper and lower level connected by a winding little path. The lower level has a playset for kids and a picnic table tucked under an arbor of ivy. The upper level has a nice grassy lawn for spreading out and beautiful views of Lake Union, the Space Needle, and downtown.

Sidenote: Hanging out in Queen Anne always involves walking the streets and staring at the homes. They give us serious house envy -- how do we get one?!

Louisa Boren Lookout

Located right next to Volunteer Park, this little park has breathtaking views of Lake Washington, some impressive trees, little benches for watching the world go by, and a unique (and untitled) sculpture by artist Lee Kelly. There is also a running path that goes right through the park in case you feel like getting some exercise. This is a perfect spot to have a picnic, mediate, or take a little rest. It's in a very quiet and quaint neighborhood with only a few joggers and dog walkers passing through.

Howell Park

It's hard to find a spot on the shores of Lake Washington where you don't have to wrestle crowds and jockey for a spot. Howell Park is a true secret Seattle gem. It's hidden down a tiny street (that looks almost like a driveway) and has no parking, but the little park butts up right to the lake with a little shore providing easy access for wading in on a hot day. Chances are you will have this lake front spot all to yourself. Since there is also no parking on Lake Washington Blvd., your best bet is to park down the street at Denny Blaine Park (another tiny park with amazing views!) and walk to it.

Thomas C. Wales Park

This park was once a gravel quarry, but now it's a unique park tucked in Downtown Seattle. The city worked with an artist to create these amazing rock structures. There is a small pond in the center, which makes it an ideal spot for birds (and apparently bats) to hang out. We suggest grabbing a sandwich at the nearby Lyon's Deli and finding a bench to pass the time.

Rainbow Point

Hiding next to an I-5 on-ramp in North Seattle, you are almost guaranteed to have this little park to yourself. It has great views of downtown, Green Lake, and (on a clear day) the Olympics. There are a few benches for sitting and a little grassy area for relaxing and picnicking. We recommend grabbing snacks from the deli at the nearby PCC and heading here for a quiet afternoon of reading.

What are some of your favorite little spots to visit around Seattle on a nice day? We would love to hear about them in the comments! 

Crabbing 101

We write about all the amazing places to eat in the city quite frequently, but what if you wanted to actually catch your dinner? What if you were looking for a real PNW experience that resulted in a delicious, well deserved meal? Well, we’ve got you covered. This post is dedicated to a favorite northwest activity…crabbing! How amazing is it that some of the World’s best crab is located right here in the Puget Sound just waiting to crawl into your trap and your dinner table. Here is our step by step guide.

Step 1: Get yourself a crabbing license. It’s illegal to catch crab without one if you are over the age of 15. You can get a day pass or one that is good for the year, and you can easily find them at most local sporting goods stores. Here is a complete list of locations. You also need to carry a catch card and record all of the Dungeness crab you catch (even if you catch zero, you are required to record and submit that). There is actually a $10 fine for not turning in your catch card!

Step 2: Gather your equipment. You will need a crabbing cage. There are many different types, but we prefer this one because it has four entrance doors and will trap the crab. You are also going to need a bait cage, which you fill with chicken parts (just buy cheap stuff!) to attract the crabs. You'll need a 75 ft. (or longer) rope tied to the cage and to a float so you can find your cage after you've dropped it. Buy them together here. Last you need to bring a measuring tape and a bucket to hold alllllll the crab you are about to catch. While this might sound intimidating, these items are not all that expensive.

Step. 3: Choose your spot! There are many different areas to crab around town. If you don’t have easy access to a boat, no worries! You can crab right off of a pier. We like Shilshole Bay Marina near Golden Gardens Park, Mukilteo Pier, and Redondo Pier in South Seattle. This article from the Seattle Times lists a bunch of places you can crab. Also, don’t forget to make sure the crabbing season is open. There are times through the year where it closes to allow scientist to count the population and for the crab’s molting season. The season is currently closed in Seattle, but it is open along the coast. Check this site to see which areas are open.

Step 4: Add the bait to your trap, toss it in, and wait! You can leave it for a few hours or overnight. This would be a good time to crack open a beer. When you are ready to check on your cage, pull it up. It should (hopefully) be filled with crab. However, don’t get too excited. Chances are you will only get to keep some of them. All females have to be thrown back to keep the population sustainable. You can also only keep crab that are over 6 ¼ inches. Throw back anything smaller. 

Photo Source

Step. 5: Take your crab home, crack, clean, and enjoy! Pat yourself on the back for a job well done and bask in the glory you are sure to receive from your friends and family. Here is a great tutorial for how to clean and cook your crab.